brixton market

The sign said these were Goatfish. ??

and here we have herring.

Took a trip to Brixton Market today with my neighbor Sarah. She'd heard of a pizza place that was supposed to be quite good - 2008 winner in London Time Out's "Best Cheap Eats" category - but was only open from noon to 5, making dinner out there pretty much impossible for those who work in an office. Still - brick oven pizza for under £7 is worth a trip, in my book. So we ventured out to see if Franco Manca was as good as it sounds.

Brixton's the last stop on the line, but still pretty easy to get to from where we live. Jubilee to Green Park, then transfer to the Victoria line. Interestingly enough, the Victoria line had several other potential names - the "Walvic line" (Walthamstow - Victoria) and "Viking line" (Victoria - King's Cross). I like the sound of Viking line, but Walvic not so much.

Once you've arrived at Brixton tube station, the market's right around the corner. Head left out of the station, take another left on Electric Ave, and you're in the market. Franco Manca is located after the candles/religious artifacts/holy water store, next to the fishmonger. The restaurant is actually split between both sides of the covered market area. Despite the chilly weather today, it was great to sit there and people-watch. There was a short wait for tables - I'd imagine with warmer temps you'd wait longer - and we shared a table with two other people.

So, how was the pizza? I have had some amazing pizzas in NYC - probably top of my list would be Paulie G's in Greenpoint, or Lil' Frankies in the East Village; Franco Manca is definitely in that league. The crust was slightly puffier here; thin and moist where covered by sauce and toppings, then bulging and flaring up. Made for a convenient handle, although it seemed like the patrons were all eating with a knife and fork, so I did the same. When in a former Roman province, do as the etc. etc.

So, the crust was really good, the sauce was alright, but the real winner here were the toppings. Excellent chorizo and without a doubt the best pepperoni i have ever eaten. And the Gloucester Old Spot ham/ricotta/mushroom one was fantastic as well. Apparently the owners, Giuseppe Mascoli and Bridget Hugo, take great care to source their ingredients. The 280 year old sourdough starter was allegedly swiped by a friend from a bakery on Ischia, which is an island near Naples, the mozzarella is made at an organic buffalo farm in Somerset (apparently the owners had a mozzarella di bufala expert from the Apennines flown in to teach the Somerset cheesemakers the specifics. )

Now that's dedication to the ingredients. And in my opinion, it's worth it.  Almost every review of Franco Manca I've read has been positive, and I don't think "There's not enough cheese, and it's shaped funny" is a valid critique of Neapolitan pizza. I will definitely be going back again. Salad, two pizzas, wine and an espresso for under £28? Yes please.


Menu here